- Why Understanding the Ocean is Important
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The our oceans make up an amazingly complex system. Winds acting
thousands of miles away can have very noticable effects locally. Moving
masses of water can cause very significant global scale weather changes
(like El Nino). Even effects of gravitational interactions with other planets
and the sun are enough to drive huge currents.
As diverse as the physical system is, the ocean has many further levels of
complexity. Consider a two layered system with warm light water on top and
cool dense water below. Often deeper colder water will be oxygen depleted and
nutrient rich. When this water is driven up to the surface and conditions
are good, phytoplankton will bloom, potentially leading to an increase in
zooplankton, and finally an influx of small to large fish and aquatic
mammals. So the physics have a direct impact on the biology, chemistry and
even the economy of the ocean.
One crucial research question that is facing us now relates to how we can
understand changes in our fisheries, and how can we help keep fisheries
healty. Many fish are drastically overfished, some populations declining
steadily, but let's not give up hope! Given a good understanding of the
fish's lifestyle, and an understanding of the physical system involved,
modelers can use coupled bio-physical models to predict primary
productivity or help choose locations to be classified as Marine Protected
Area (MPA) so that larval production and survival can be maximized and the
health of the fisheries can be maintained (even repaired!).
- Why I Think it's Interesting
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Watching a set of waves roll in towards a beach, you can see the waves
gently bobbing up and down. As the water gets shallow they quickly steepen,
shooting out into the air. If the conditions are right (a clean set and
light offshore winds), the steep waves turn the corner and form shimmering
glassy barrels. Watching this process, in my opinion, is a truly beautiful
experience. Seeing the barrel crash down making a frothy foam that lingers
at the surface, one can appreciate the energy of these waves. Looking at a
wave and knowing that it travelled as far as a thousand miles to end up at
that beach is even more awesome. The link between all of the processes
involved with the ocean is what I really love. The solar radiation driving
the wind, the wind setting up tiny differences in the slope of the sea, those
tiny differences driving huge currents that cause booms in biological
productivity while changing the winds... all adds up to the beauty of nature.